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Barely had I hit the city of Lyon (and the wifi zone) my phone chimed a whatsapp alert: ‘Have you been to a Buchon yet?’ quizzed my foodie friend from back home. ‘Not yet, sis!’ I wrote back, but not before turning to my warm host Barbara Breheret and putting out my wishlist.
The city of Lyon is a contrast to the mad rush and crowds of Paris, the fashionable French capital. What fashion is to Paris, Gastronomy is to Lyon. Many French masters have left an indelible mark on the city, especially, Paul Bocuse. It was to his credit that Lyon earned the moniker – French Capital of Gastronomy.
Legacy of Paul Bocuse
Paul Bocuse is also the one to have popularised the less opulent and calorifique style popularly known as nouvelle style French cuisine from the traditional cuisine classique. Nouvelle cuisine being the simplified version that rests heavy on fresh ingredients of the highest quality over the haute Classic style.
His elite Institut Paul Bocuse could well be the Mecca of culinary higher education – it being one of the most sought after by those chasing culinary perfection. Most chefs graduating from the institute go on to earn Michelin star awards. The examples are too many to recount.
Speaking of inspiration, Bocuse himself was inspired by legendary Eugenie Brazier, also known as the Mother of French Cuisine and the first ever to win as many as receive six Michelin stars.
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Another contribution of Bocuse to the city is Les Halles de Lyon, the legendary indoor food market dating back to 1971, and offering the finest produce available anywhere in the world. It’s a haven for food lovers. From butchers Trolliet and Giroud/Perrier to the bakeries of Jocteur, Maison Victoire and Maison Claude; the fishmongers Maison Pupier and Joanny Durand to cakes and chocolates from Délices des Sens, Chocolats Richarts and Maison Sève, wines and spirits by Fac & Spera and cheesemongers Fromagerie Mons, Mère Richard and Beillevaire, you will find the finest under one roof. A morning visit to the place is a perfect start for anyone seeking gastronomical experience out of the city. There are ample places to dine or even grab a coffee or drink wine, even as you admire how French can remain so fit in a hub as sinful as this.
But then, so as not to limit the city to just its exceptional culinary heritage, there is a lot more to Lyon. For a city that welcomes approximately 6 million visitors every year (66% business and 34% leisure tourism, according to Lyon tourism’s website) as against the 44 million that Paris received in 2022, the city holds the status of the third largest Metropolis in France and the second most visited destination in the country.
Pre-pandemic, in 2019, the city hosted 101 events (66% more on previous year), including 34% association congresses, 37% trade shows and fairs, and 29% meetings and conventions. Of these, 44% association congresses were held in the healthcare, medicine and life sciences sectors. Forty three per cent of meetings and conventions held in the city had a regional audience and the five trade shows attracted more than 60% of visitors. The business is slowly coming back to the city now.
Of bikes and bridges
As I take in the view from the window of my room at Boscolo Lyon Hotel & Spa, a 19th century building with Haussmann architecture and overlooking the Rhone River, I cannot help but reflect on the calm that the city draws.
The hotel is centrally located, right at the confluence of Rhône and Saône rivers that separates the old city from the ‘new’ town. Life is not rushed here and everything is a short walk from where we are staying.
Later, as I set out to explore the city centre, I can see why Lyon is known as a city of bridges and bikes. For Lyonnais, a bike is a great alternative to walking around. And you can hire one with great ease from a self-service bike rental. The winding streets and cobbled pathways appear even more charming while riding a bike. Separate lanes make it safe for the bikers to ride around and naturally yes, more than cars, you need to watch out for bikers while crossing the roads!
While taxis may be an expensive alternative, city buses are the other great way to move around. This really is not a city to rush. Not knowing French can be a handicap, but for the most part, I manage it well on my own. Locals are largely friendly and busy with their own lives.
I make a beeline for a French Pharmacie, armed with a list of must buys from the skincare and cosmic section. Mark my words, you can bag a steal deal here!
Exploring the old town
Across the river is the old town. There is a distinct demarcation with the two in terms of architecture. Seasonal showers played spoilsport for what could have been a walking tour. Nevertheless, we start our tour at the famous La Fresque des Lyonnais, or the Mural of Lyonnais. Painted by the artist collective, CitéCréation, La Fresque des Lyonnais has 31 famous people from Lyon and the surrounding area painted on the building — including Antoine de Saint Exupéry (Le Pétit Prince), the Lumière brothers (pioneers of cinema), and, of course, Paul Bocuse.
Next is the basilica Notre-Dame of Fourvière. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the basilica is listed as a historical monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Considered as the emblem of the city of Lyon, it offers a unique architecture with a byzantine, gothic and romanesque inspiration. Each year, the basilica welcomes over 2.5 million pilgrims and visitors.
The inside of Notre-Dame of Fourvière Basilica is composed of two churches one upon the other, with extraordinary volumes, accessible from the square. The higher Church is dominated by three domes and lit by six stained-glass windows offering a light emphasising a rich decor.
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Composed of three big naves and three vaulted spans, gothic arches, the whole of the higher church is supported by 16 columns. There are eight chapels and the apse is lit thanks to seven high stained- glass windows. On the side walls, six large mosaics of 50 square metres, by Charles Lameire et Georges Décote, show, on the left, the link of Mary to the Church and on the right the relationship of Mary with France.
The interior is even more impressive than the façade. There is so much history there. Its giant stained-glass windows and columns evoke awe and you can easily lose count of time here.
The history of Lyon actually dates back to 43 BC and is said to be one of the first Roman settlements and the biggest city in Gaul. The remnants of its ancient history are well preserved in the Gallo-Roman ruins of Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules or Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls on Fourvière Hill.
The famed Bouchons
Lyonais are proud of their history and have carefully preserved the city. As if stuck in a time warp, we walk down the cobbled street while taking in the residences that remind you of the Renaissance age complete with staircases and courtyards. Secret passages or Traboules interconnect the city even today. Handmade soap or Savon shops and those selling handmade goods and fresh produce dot the tiny lanes. And then there are the Bouchons.
For those who have been wondering, a traditional Bouchon is a typically local down-to-earth family style eatery with wooden tables placed closely together. Pot Lyonnais (wine carafes), copper pans, red and white checked tablecloths, and hearty fare are the other trademarks of these eateries, often (now) extended to bistro style.
Dating back to the 16th or 17th century, the tradition is said to have first started in Croix-Rousse, which is known as the Canut (silk worker) district. These Bouchons typically served these workers a warm, home-cooked and fuss-free meal in a friendly setting. The style was later handed down by Les Mères Lyonnaises, a group of female chefs who opened their own restaurants from the mid-18th century onward, helping build Lyon’s gastronomic reputation. Brazier was one of the chefs who carried the tradition forward.
Our table is reserved at Bouchon Les Lyonnais. It’s a Saturday night and the Bouchon is packed. The energy in the room is lively, warm, just like the food that is served. I dig hungrily into my onion soup served with goat cheese and cottage cheese and vegetable gratin. It’s been a great experience, and I am already planning my next trip here.
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